Every Friday night in Barbados, hundreds of locals and tourists descend on the quaint fishing village of Oistins for the Oistins Fish Fry, a culinary institution held in the rustic, open-air Oistins Bay Garden marketplace adjacent to the Oistins Fish Market. About a dozen or so purveyors of fresh seafood sell their catch each week, giving hungry seafood-lovers all the options they could possibly ask for.
Oistins Fish Market, located roughly 20 to 25 minutes southeast of Bridgetown by car, is where fishing boats return to offload
their daily catches. Nine years ago, someone started frying
fish on Friday nights, and that simple act started drawing a number of people to the market. Now every week from 7 p.m. until about midnight, it's more a festival than just a place to grab a bite.
Mahi, red snapper, marlin and whole lobsters are just some of the options visitors will find at the fish fry. (And for those who don't eat seafood, there are options like chicken and pork available.) And since we're in Barbados, it's very likely that the accompaniment is
macaroni pie, a popular Barbados dish that is the Bajan version of baked
mac and cheese, although peas and rice is another crowd-pleasing option. And a Banks beer, the island's take on an American lager, seems to be the preferred way to wash it all down.
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On a recent visit to the event, I chose Pat's Place, mostly
because the long line in front of Pat's told me that it must be worth
the wait. As soon I received my plate, I learned that that was indeed the case. My meal consisted of two marinated and grilled mahi fillets that spanned the entirety of the take-out tray, their juices enriching the macaroni pie hidden underneath.
The menu selections and prices at each establishment are basically the
same, so selecting where to eat is likely determined by either an
eatery's reputation, waiting time or maybe the aromas wafting from a
particular establishment. Each vendor uses its own recipe; no two are
alike. The average plate starts at $16 for mahi and a side, but given
the portion sizes, you'll likely get two meals out of it. My leftovers
became the next day's breakfast.
Seating is basic: just benches with canopies and some plastic chairs. While pretty close to the bay, the fish fry isn't about scenic seaside dining; it's about what comes out of that sea.
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In addition to food and drink, the weekly event offers live entertainment, including dance and musical performances on a centrally located stage, where spectators put their dancing shoes, or sandals, to use. On this night several Michael Jackson impersonators moonwalked for the crowds. Close to the beachfront, scores of vendors sell their merchandise, including some handmade artisan wares.
The village of Oistins, located on the south coast of the island, has bars and rum shops and is a 10-minute walk to the island's Miami Beach. From St. Lawrence Gap, home to resorts like Sandals Barbados and the O2 Beach Club & Spa, it's about a 10-minute drive on Highway 7, although public transportation or taxis are available.
To learn more about the weekly Oistin Fish Fry, visit the Barbados Tourism website.